PART TWO
After falling down a rabbit hole researching the history of women wearing trousers (read Part 1 here), I finally got round to making a pair of my own. Inspired by beautiful images of my Nan wearing varying styles, I decided on a style that’s a mix of her vintage shape, my own preferences to fit my body and a something to suit a modern day wardrobe.
Trial and Error
If you have been following me on Instagram for a while, you will know I purchased the Viki Sews ‘Hilary’ pattern in a flash sale. It only cost me around £3.50, a bargain I thought! Sadly it wasn’t to be. I followed the instructions as best as I could based on what was written. Some parts are very unclear and it seems that some points are in the wrong order. I also cut the fabric (a non stretch, woven or woollen fabric as suggested in the pattern) to my size based on the sizing chart. Just before adding the fly zip and waistband, I tried them on… or attempted to! I couldn’t get them past my knees! I was very cross, what a waste of time and fabric. I took a breather and made a pinafore dress while I mourned the loss of said trousers. (see Put Your Pinny On for more on that!)
The Pattern
So, the Viki Sews ‘Hilary’ pattern goes straight in the bin. It’s not happening. Back to Google to search for a pattern with good reviews, by a brand I know and trust but that fits my design. I came across many options but felt that the Simplicity 8749 Mimi G Style Trouser and Jacket Pattern was perfect. I spent so much time practicing jet and welt pockets on my previous attempt and this pattern doesn’t incorporate this type of pocket. I looked closely at the darts and seams on the bum and thought I could adapt the pattern and add a back welt pocket. I challenge myself with every project I take on and adding a tricky little pocket like this was how I chose to achieve something new. This pattern also comes with a jacket, which I thought would come in handy for another project. I bought my pattern along with thread and a pack of hook and eyes from Jaycotts, it arrived quickly and as seconds after it fell through the letter box, I measured the pattern pieces so I could avoid any mistakes before cutting.
If I am honest, I didn’t understand the sizing on the back of the packet! I am normally a UK 8, but when measuring, I found I matched the lines for a 10/12. I know the pattern is American, but it still didn’t make sense to me. Anyway, I measured and ignored the numbers. I will continue to always do this form now on after my Viki Sews incident. I almost forgot to add, this pattern comes with a YouTube instruction video. I love this, I find it easier to follow than written instructions. Although the written instructions were also perfectly clear and easy to follow. Both great, so choose your preference.
The Fabric
In the old family photographs I took inspiration from for this make, you can faintly see that the trousers are made of a check or tartan wool. I loved this idea, who go plain when you can go pattern? So I went in search of the perfect fabric. The pattern suggests fabric with a slight stretch, so baring this in mind I wanted to find something that could maintain the structure of a slim fit, tailored trouser and be comfortable to wear. I looked at all my favourite websites to shop for fabric and wasn’t having any luck. I do like to think about the impact my purchases and projects have on our planet and often make my garments out of vintage fabric that I have had in my stash for years, inherited from my great aunt or using thrifted bedsheets and table cloths. However I just didn’t have anything appropriate for this project.
I found the most gorgeous poly/wool suiting on the Blackbird Fabrics website, I didn’t buy it straight away, it sat in my basket for around a week while I scoured stores for something that would match it. I have been following Blackbird Fabrics for a while and love so many of their products, being based in Canada, this isn’t great for the carbon footprint and I do feel this on my conscience, I’m going to be completely honest and add that the fabric I fell in love with was made in Italy. So it’s well travelled before it’s even been cut to length and sent to me here in the UK. It was actually more affordable for me (even with shipping) to buy the perfect fabric for my trousers than to buy something I felt less love for here in the UK. I try not to do this too often and like to do my bit for the planet as well as I can with the knowledge I have and I’m always up for learning more too, but this time I chose for my little package to be shipped half way across the world.
When said package arrived, I was over the moon. The suiting is soft to the touch, a good, heavy weight and just the right amount of stretch. The colours were perfect; a mix of tan, black brown and a blush pink. When I cut into it with scissors or a roller cutter it remained firm, frayed a little but nothing an overlocker can’t fix. When i started sewing, it didn’t move or slide under the foot, a sewists dream! I can’t praise this fabric enough, it would make a great dress, jacket or skirt too.
The Finished trousers
Here in the photo, you can just about see the check pattern of my Nanny’s trousers, her silhouette is slightly baggier than mine on the left but I am so happy with how they have turned out. The slim fit of the trousers that I have made are more suited to my style. I’m easing myself in to the world of trousers (that aren’t jeans) since I no longer work in an office. I am full time from home and I associate woollen trousers with workwear. You can see in the second video below that they work perfectly for workwear but as I only need workwear for maybe one or two days a year, I wanted to find other ways to style them. In the videos below I have styled the trousers three ways. Video 1, casual, a bright pink cosy roll neck jumper to bring out the pink in the fabric teamed with black patent boots. Video 2, the workwear look, cute collar sweater and black patent loafers. Video 3, black camisole, contrasting checked coat, hot pink platform heels and a silver clutch for a dinner and drinks in the evening. I love all three and it’s great to have something I can wear for multiple occasions.
I’d love to know what you think! If you have any questions about anything I have spoken about in this post, please get in touch.
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Fancy a girl power, get up and dance, burn your bra play list to go with this blog post? Well… here you go!
If you would like to read Who Wears The Trousers? Part 1, please click the link! Part 1 is the a little window into the history of women wearing trousers, its fascinating with weird and wondering facts.